Curious after all the recent publicity about overcrowding in Cornwall this summer I thought I’d go and seek out a quieter area of Cornwall a few days ago. If you happened to miss it, a comment by Malcolm Bell from Visit Cornwall made reference to Cornwall being exceptionally busy this summer. The media misconstrued the comment and he later replied saying that there were another 400 beaches in Cornwall besides the two of the most popular beaches Kynance Cove and Porthcurno, nearer to Boscrowan, which were overcrowded. Have you even heard of Whitsand Bay I wonder? Ashamedly I hadn’t and wanting to explore an unknown area of Cornish coast I set out with backpack and map last week to walk on the Rame peninsula, which is near Torpoint and the Devon border.
Beginning my journey in Seaton, mid morning, with an energising latte (Plenty of contours on the map alongside the marked SW Coast path), where I was only the fifth customer in the café I meandered on to Downderry. Here I spotted just one family on the beach playing in the sea.
An August paddle
Admittedly it was a dullish day, but even so, it was the middle of August.
Walking along the beach then up onto the road to re join the coastal footpath it was such fun to explore a different area of Cornwall where the sand was more grey and silver than the golden we know here at West Cornwall. The cliffs were different and more trees close to the sea. Proof that this was indeed a more sheltered spot with less biting winds in the winter and if anyone should disagree the evidence was there – the trees grew upright unlike the few that survive close to the coast of the far west.
The coast path was steep up and steep down. Easy steps but still a walk to challenge the less fit, myself included.
coastal footpath
The mist rolled in and the mist rolled out again, no phone signal so no contact with the outside world – just heavenly….what could be more relaxing.
the sea became the sky or the sky became the sea!
As I descended from the last hill before Portwrinke – and oh what a lovely name, I spotted a seat upon which I could rest myself and my rucksack. I couldn’t resist a giggle when I saw that it was dedicated to possible ancestors. Definitely needed to be sat upon!
A relatives resting place?
Portwrinkle ahead
And so on to Portwrinkle which even had a traditional red phone box which was still in use – so no mobile reception here too. And people survive?!!! The Jolly Roger produced a very acceptable pannini for lunch. No frills but a lovely view over the beach below and again no more than a handful of people.
Refreshed I strode on, again lovely views, alongside the golf course and then the path ran alongside the road, past the large and foreboding Tregantle Fort, high up on a hill and shrouded in mist before dropping down to the coast again and the lovely Sharrow Cliff
Sharrow Cliff NT
The rock formations here were different, more linear than home, the thrift would have been lovely earlier in the year. My walk ended just before the hamlet of Freathy – a collection of mainly wooden chalets, all individual and probably all privately owned – no complexes here.
Inspired, I shall return – Rame Head and Kingsand and Cawsand are beckoning. Not surprisingly this area is called ‘Forgotten Cornwall’. So yes, you can always find empty beaches in Cornwall – even in August!
Manned by amateur radio volunteers we were overwhelmed with the enthusiasm and knowledge we were welcomed with. This was the place where the Italian inventor Marconi received a radio signal from the Isle of White and proved that radio waves would travel over the horizon. A short film to enjoy and plenty of information to absorb it was a Visitor Centre definitely not to be missed.
